Sunday, May 13, 2007

Man and Woman in a Chinese restaurant in Tunis

- This is not a personal story, but I was there -


Who knows who arrived first? Was it the man who took a bench seat and ordered a meal and then a beer? Did the woman come in after, and seek out a seat - with a view of, but a distance from, the front door? Did she notice him on the way to the table or was she just relieved to get off of the street into a relaxed setting?

Or did the woman take up her strategic position in the back corner of the restaurant first? Maybe the man came in and brazenly took up a seat with only a table - a chair - a small divider -another bench seat - and her table - to divide them?

Maybe it will help if I describe them. He: 40ish, Asian, eyes that could smile easily and the lines to prove it, perched on a chair, full of action but relaxed in repose. She: late 30s, blonde-brown hair, smiley but fatigued from the calls of the street and the stress of work, travelling to meet with the local affiliate, now in a space of respite from the street.

They each drank from green bottles of beer. Maybe he had already eaten or else he would eat later. She ordered a plate of some sort: rice, maybe with some meat.

But of course this is all background to the topic at hand: relationship?

His eyes as already described looked quick to laugh as he peered around the restaurant. His glance brushing against a poster (of the Asahi Beer woman, strangely incongruous in this Tunisian Chinese restaurant) must have met her gaze once. At least once. Did it linger? Who can know? Perhaps, she was the one who caught him in her vision and transformed him from stranger to potential comforter.

There is something about this transformation, when one of the other millions of people sharing the earth with us, steps out of the line and smiles or frowns or shares an emotion. An emotion that comforts or challenges. Tells us of an inner depth, a possibility.

I should say the restaurant was completely empty except for me and two other expats, and the servers and presumably some sort of cook in the back. I know little more, but I imagine that in an effort to connect they would have shared a smile and perhaps commented on the food or the weather, perhaps asked about the day.

I imagine that he joins her at her table. She clears a space for him to place down his beer. He interjects with a claim that her kindness is unnecessary. They smile again and pause. What next? The pause lingers.

Then both speak at once. Another moment of pause and then she begins to talk. She talks of her day or life or perhaps the challenge of travelling alone in a strange country. He listens intently without hearing a word but with hearing a tone. Her voice soothes. He feels the hairs at the back of his head perk and goose bumps running down his spine. She pauses at his silence and he smiles to encourage her to go on.

She continues with more confidence and faster speech to tell her stories - to connect to another human being - in a way that has been impossible since her trip began. He is nodding but she realizes he is not following. She slows again and asks a question. He smiles broadly and gestures her to continue.

She asks if he speaks English.

He responds with "English"

She tries, "francais, espanol, arabic?"

"Francais, oui, je parle francais..." he says clearly and rapidly, far to rapidly for her school french.

She remember just a few phrases and a bit of Spanish, "un petit peu lentement".

He nods and continues at a slower pace to introduce himself and to tell her of his day. Now his voice speaks of a rythm that connects to her in an unexpected way. She attempts to catch as many words as she can. The story of his day relates to his work and travel that is certain but he is speaking of something familiar to her.

He slows down and stops. She realizes that there is another awkward pause and she fills it with
"oui, oui."

Silence continues. He drinks. She picks at her food. They smile again.

---

I imagine that they had a night of passionate love. I imagine that they had a night of sharing and stayed up late talking. I hope at least that they were able to connect. That is why we live and that is why I noticed that man and that woman in a Chinese restaurant in Tunis, Tunisia.

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